Oppi

Miniature portrait of Oppi Untracht as a "maharaja", 1959
Collection of the author, Photograph by Timo Ripatti ©

7 months ago I traveled to India. Until now, it has been one of the most intense experiences in my life and India is since then very close to my heart. To spend a whole afternoon in one of New Delhi's enormous bookstores is a great treat. You will find books on every topic; usually very affordable. At the Arts section of one store I found the chunky Traditional Jewelry of India by Oppi Untracht.

© Editorial Thames & Hudson, 1997

It is a treasure. Just as the other books by Untracht, this one is overflowing with pictures, detailed technical descriptions, drawings, and the history and traditions of both makers and wearers of Indian jewelry. In my opinion this is an important book for designers, goldsmiths and lovers of the rich Indian culture because its investigation begins with the first ornaments: body painting and seashells and runs through the evolution of form, meaning and technique of adornment. Here you have the complete jewelry repertoire since 5.000 years ago.

© Editorial Thames & Hudson, 1997

"India changed the course of my entire life and gave it direction"

In the introduction to his book, Untracht narrates how, influenced by books, movies and later in the 50's exhibitions coming to New York, he decides to go to India and experience first hand that mysterious and exotic culture he wanted to investigate.
Thanks to scholarships he is able to stay for 2 years in that big country. "Armed with cameras, lighting equipment, a large box of film, a bag of bananas, hard boiled eggs, life - sustaining Bitannia Biscuits and a plastic bottle of boiled water, I could go anywhere", says the author. Imagine him, protecting himself against the monsoon rains, crossing desserts and hanging bridges on his way to isolated villages at the Himalayas. Sleeping sometimes at grand hotels, sometimes at railway stations or even more unconfortable places. Thousends of photos and 3 destroyed cameras.

© Editorial Thames & Hudson, 1997

Years later he returns to India with his wife Saara Hopea-Untracht, a well known glass and jewelry designer from Finland, to work as a team visiting new places, taking thousends more photos and drawing the inexhaustible material of investigation.
After Saara's death, he decides the time has come to organize the compilation of so many years and publish this book, with the hope, he says, that someone will continue this investigation in the future.

© Editorial Thames & Hudson, 1997

When I spent a lot of time in my studio, my eyes hurting, I think about this story, dreaming to return to India and spend months from one place to another learning some metal techniques. Maybe continuing Oppi's investigation...